March 2011 - SW France - Day 4 Dave’s place to Nontron and then Nontron into the Dordogne and around; or, how to resurrect something out of nothing

The weather today was overcast with showers forecast throughout the day. However, after a wet start, the skies started to clear and, by 11am the sun was making progress - at least in St Fort sur Gironde. The previous evening, we had mapped two Michelin “Viree” motorcycle routes in/around the Dordogne but they required a 2 hr journey east to Nontron to reach the start.

By 12pm we were were on our way, having set the sat nav to go the fastest route via Angouleme. Above us the weather remained dry but clearly threatening; however, as we continued, it was clear that we were speeding directly into what the weather forecast had stated as “local storms”. As we exited Barbezieux-sur-Saint-Hilaire heading north east onto onto the N10, the proverbial “heavens opened”. Dave was leading and he immediately had problems with his glasses and helmet causing a serious reduction in visibility; we exited and headed back for “home”. However, the rain immediately above us had stopped so we thought to go to Arcachon we set off; 1 minute later and we decided to head home after all.; we set up. And yet again, we stopped and Dave suggested that we at least head to St Emilion and then home. I happily agreed to all these suggestions and so off we went again. Whilst on route we reset the Sat navs to go to Blaye probably because we were unable to find St Emilion other than via a boring dual carriageway type road.

At last the skies were clearing and the road snakes though mile after mile of vines. Being late March, they were some months away from yielding their valuable fruit but it is clear that La Vigne is the principal crop in this area.

We arrived in Blaye and parked around the walls of the garrison walls and then followed the footpath overlooking the swirling confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne rivers to form the Gironde estuary. we then walked to a cafe and planned what to do. Dave thought that we should head for Arcachon and so I consulted the Michein guide (never leave home without it!).

We had a dull ride south west on motorway type roads which were surprisingly congested for a Sunday afternoon. After more than an hour we peeled off and then had mile after mile of straights interrupted by roundabouts. Finally we turned off the coast road and came inland towards the lake name the Etang de Cazaux et de Sanguinet. The road leading to our hotel was fabulous; swooping bends, wonderful road surface and little traffic. We arrived at the hotel in bright warm sunshine at 6:30pm.