It's 6:15am and I have slept soundly. I am listeneing to UCB radio (praise the Lord) via the Sky TV in my room ! My back remains a little "achy" but it has since Saturday morning; and whilst I could put it down to the long distance biking, I actually think that it's due to the relatively poor mattresses used in most B&Bs. No matter.
The reason I "put to paper" is because I have awoken to a totally clear sky with the sun rising slowly over the hills in the distance. If I were in the middle east then situation normal. But here in the Isle of Skye they've had dreadful weather for weeks and weeks; yet here on this mid September morning, the forecast for the day looks incredible. Which means I'll change my planned route!
What I didn't say yesterday was that, en route I had met a chap (BMW R1200GS (they seem to be haunting me now!)) who mentioned that whilst my planned route north from Skye was indeed great as a pure biking route; he strongly recommended the coastal road up towards Ullapool. So, seeing as I have covered the planned day's riding by lunch time these past two days, I will take his advice; especially with such wonderful weather in prospect.
____________________________
You know instinctively when a B&B’s good, average - or not. Whilst my room was fine I did not appreciate having to walk out into the ground floor hallway to go to the bathroom; especially since James, the 26 year old (or so) owner, was constantly up and down the strairs etc. I could hardly walk out in my birthday suit (perish the though). Breakfast was rubbish; eating in the dining area off the main kitchen, the kitchen itself wasn’t being used. Instead James thought it better to use a microwave in the utility room. So I received 2 poached eggs and a tomato – microwaved. The tea was a pot of hot water into which I was asked to use Tetley teabags. The whole thing was rubbish; AND £5 more expensive than the others. (Having Radio 1 playing during my breakfast didn’t help either). I was away by 8:15am; never to return !
The bridge across Lock Alsh from Skye to the Scottish mainland was glorious; the sun was shining brightly without a cloud to be seen; very promising ! I backtracked a few miles to take the A890 to Achnasheen. Initially climbing, the road then swoops down and follows a railway; in parts the road is single track (with passing !) through a small tunnel and then across the railway. The road then opens out offering great biking. The locals belt along at 60+ and so it was quite relaxing just following one of them and just swing left right and left again. Approaching Achnasheen you ride through a very stark area of open marshy moor, made all the more uninviting by low hanging clouds. From the glorious sunshine of 10 minutes ago, I actually thought it might rain. At the junction, the faster road to Ullapool is right; the scenic route via the coast road is left. I took left . The road just got better and better offering a wide well surfaced road that, in places was easily good for “good progress” to be made (my mother reads this blog so I have to be careful what I write!).
The views around the coast were lovely and the weather was settled into a cloudless day; already showing 18C by 11am, it was surreal; was this really the Highlands of Scotland in mid September ?! Having made a number of stops en route to take photos, I entered Ullapool; replenished the tank with Super unleaded (she prefers that) and then had tea (Early Grey) and a scone overlooking the harbour. All in glorious sunshine; a Honda VFR owner stopped as well. We chatted for some time before going our separate ways.
From Ullapool, I headed north, following the coast road, stopping for a sandwich lunch en route and then headed straight for Tongue; or, should I say John O’Groats! Well, it didn’t seem right; going all this way and not visiting the famous spot. So instead of the estimated 185 miles to my B&B in Tongue, it would be alot more; a further 63 miles each way to be precise!
The route to this infamous land mark is not worthy of great remark. What is though, is that, some 30 miles from Tongue on the return leg from John O’Groats, my computer warning light flashed RED telling me that the front tyre was at 1.3 bar i.e. it had lost almost 50% of its pressure! This was serious so I slowed immediately (not that I had felt anything with respect to handling) and prepared to stop. I was on the open moor and saw a Parking bay ahead. Just as I was preparing to stop, the computer stopped flashing its warning light and the from tyre pressure retuned to its normal readout of 2.5 bar. I continued muttering about the little boy who cried wolf; not funny.
When I found my B&B in Tongue, I had covered 324 miles since I left Skye this morning; that's a fair old distance considering that few of those miles were on straight roads ! In contrast to last night, my B&B tonight is delightful. I have a large double room with en suite; tea making etc and Wi-Fi access. No TV but, who cares? A few mozzies around though!
Tomorrow morning, I shall have kippers for breakfast; the owners recommended them and it’s what my father would have chosen.
2 comments:
Really enjoying this.
Feels as though I am there with you. I am staggered you can consider doing an extra 126 miles just to see the John O'Groats. Respect.
Which way are you coming down?
Post a Comment