We left Viellle-Adout at around 9:45 and set our Sat Navs to Condom. The route was “OK” but it was rather dull D roads interspersed with towns and the inevitable plethora of roundabouts. We had initially decided to go to Blaye and then travel up the coats road but, as the temperature settled on 28C Dave's idea of just getting home and the swimming seemed more and more attractive. So we joined the autoroute and sat there for an hour or so and, by 3:00pm we had arrived.
The plan was for me to return back to Spain to pick up the ferry to Portsmouth but the more I though about it, the more illogical it became. So, I contacted Brittany Ferries and they swapped by Santander to Portsmouth ticket for a Caen to Portsmouth ticket; and refunded me £43 in the process :-)
So I shall have to do Spain “next time”; or another time.
Effectively this means that I shall be home 48 hours early; which is fine and which will bring the holiday to an end.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
September 2011 - Spain and France - Day 8 : a mixed bag - not great
The group 8 bikes left Vielle-Amour at 9:30 and the plan was to ride the Roncal valley in Spain and then back up to France. After some 10 minutes’ riding, I was surprised to see a phone call come through from a French number; I answered it; it was Bellinda; she advised that one of the guys had left all his documents on the table. For the first time my Autocom phone system seemed to work !! Hurray ! I told her that I would immediately advise Phil. 
I sped up to the front of the group and told Phil; we parked up some 1 mile further and Phil returned to retrieve the documents.
The roads had variable surfaces and, at our first stop, Dave and I agreed that we would prefer to do our own thing at our own pace. So we split off and headed off towards the Roncal valley.
The road was indeed wonderful but Dave became concerned that his brakes were fading; so we pulled over and Dave checked everything out; all seemed fine; so we continued without further incident.
We arrived back at Vielle-Adour at 6pm but had to admit that it had not been a great day; we were hot and tired and decided that we would cancel the hotel for Friday night in Spain and, instead, head back to Dave and Janet’s in St Fort sur Gironde where we would chill out and relax. I would then return to Santander on Sunday ready for my ferry on the Monday afternoon.
I sped up to the front of the group and told Phil; we parked up some 1 mile further and Phil returned to retrieve the documents.The roads had variable surfaces and, at our first stop, Dave and I agreed that we would prefer to do our own thing at our own pace. So we split off and headed off towards the Roncal valley.
The road was indeed wonderful but Dave became concerned that his brakes were fading; so we pulled over and Dave checked everything out; all seemed fine; so we continued without further incident.We arrived back at Vielle-Adour at 6pm but had to admit that it had not been a great day; we were hot and tired and decided that we would cancel the hotel for Friday night in Spain and, instead, head back to Dave and Janet’s in St Fort sur Gironde where we would chill out and relax. I would then return to Santander on Sunday ready for my ferry on the Monday afternoon.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
September 2011 - Spain and France - Day 7 : Best Biking road ever ?! (200 miles)
The plan today was to head south to Andora and then on into Spain and then circle back (across some Cols) to rejoin the N20 and head back into France. Over breakfast (which was absolutely dreadful) I was informed by some German bikers that the route to Andora, across the Cols, was 100% OK for bikes; after all, lorries and coaches use it!
We left at around 9:20 and the route was fun but not exciting; as we neared Andora, we were given the opportunity to either go over the Col or go through the new tunnel. We decided to go through the tunnel and were soon in the Municipality of Andora. Two things struck us about Andora; 1) the sheer number of petrol stations and 2) the lack of anything else to tempt you to stop. The revolting buildings and architecture were quite astounding and, before we knew it, we were through Andora and into Spain. However, we did fill up our tanks with 98 Octane petrol at €1.27 / litre which is around €0.25 cheaper than in France.
The route from Andora took us south on the N-145 which then migrated into the N-260. The route was splendid, little traffic and enjoyable as we sped through the rolling hills and into Adrall where we turned right to continue the N-260 towards Sort. Again, the route was great, and I was relieved that we had not encountered any technically demanding sections because, in today’s 30C heat, this would not have been fun.
We rolled into Sort and stopped at a bar/restaurant where, not understanding the menu, we chose various Tapas which were both curious and pleasant and filled the gap since the (rubbish) breakfast at the hotel Confort.
The section of road between Sort and the junction with the N-230 is simply 45 miles of the most outstanding motorcycling tarmac. We are discussing a road that could have been designed with the BMW GT in mind; perfect surface; smooth with few ripples; straights; fast “swoopy” bends that allow the rider to get into a rhythm swing from right to left and right again; and all of this following the contours of a river which sparkles and glistens from bend to bend. To add some additional fun, there is a section which Phil Battersby calls the “Scalectrix” section where bend follows bend with hairpins at end as the road descends hundreds of metres towards the valley floor.
When you finally reach the junction with the N-230 at Vielha you are grinning from ear to ear. Dave and I have bike to bike comms so we are able to chat along the route; indeed with Janet as Dave’s pillion, she is also able to make her own observations. Along this section of road between Sort and Vielha we all agreed that this is a FIVE STAR (plus plus) road. And you don’t need to be a motorcyclist to appreciate it; no, had we been driving a serious sports car, the same accolades could be bestowed to the designers and builders of this road.
The route back to Phil and Belinda’s place was uneventful and, had I used my head (as opposed to the Sat Nav) we would have had a smoother route as opposed to following “farm track” style roads which the Sat Nav felt were equally fast !
We were warmly greeted by Bellinda and immediately made to feel at home. A group of 5 bikers arrived at 6pm led by Phil so Pyrenees Motorcycle Tours was full to capacity. Nevertheless, a delicious 4 course meal was served at 8pm which was great.
Dave summed up today; “a perfect day’s motorcycling” - what more can one add?
We left at around 9:20 and the route was fun but not exciting; as we neared Andora, we were given the opportunity to either go over the Col or go through the new tunnel. We decided to go through the tunnel and were soon in the Municipality of Andora. Two things struck us about Andora; 1) the sheer number of petrol stations and 2) the lack of anything else to tempt you to stop. The revolting buildings and architecture were quite astounding and, before we knew it, we were through Andora and into Spain. However, we did fill up our tanks with 98 Octane petrol at €1.27 / litre which is around €0.25 cheaper than in France.
The route from Andora took us south on the N-145 which then migrated into the N-260. The route was splendid, little traffic and enjoyable as we sped through the rolling hills and into Adrall where we turned right to continue the N-260 towards Sort. Again, the route was great, and I was relieved that we had not encountered any technically demanding sections because, in today’s 30C heat, this would not have been fun.
We rolled into Sort and stopped at a bar/restaurant where, not understanding the menu, we chose various Tapas which were both curious and pleasant and filled the gap since the (rubbish) breakfast at the hotel Confort.
The section of road between Sort and the junction with the N-230 is simply 45 miles of the most outstanding motorcycling tarmac. We are discussing a road that could have been designed with the BMW GT in mind; perfect surface; smooth with few ripples; straights; fast “swoopy” bends that allow the rider to get into a rhythm swing from right to left and right again; and all of this following the contours of a river which sparkles and glistens from bend to bend. To add some additional fun, there is a section which Phil Battersby calls the “Scalectrix” section where bend follows bend with hairpins at end as the road descends hundreds of metres towards the valley floor.
When you finally reach the junction with the N-230 at Vielha you are grinning from ear to ear. Dave and I have bike to bike comms so we are able to chat along the route; indeed with Janet as Dave’s pillion, she is also able to make her own observations. Along this section of road between Sort and Vielha we all agreed that this is a FIVE STAR (plus plus) road. And you don’t need to be a motorcyclist to appreciate it; no, had we been driving a serious sports car, the same accolades could be bestowed to the designers and builders of this road.
The route back to Phil and Belinda’s place was uneventful and, had I used my head (as opposed to the Sat Nav) we would have had a smoother route as opposed to following “farm track” style roads which the Sat Nav felt were equally fast !
We were warmly greeted by Bellinda and immediately made to feel at home. A group of 5 bikers arrived at 6pm led by Phil so Pyrenees Motorcycle Tours was full to capacity. Nevertheless, a delicious 4 course meal was served at 8pm which was great.
Dave summed up today; “a perfect day’s motorcycling” - what more can one add?
September 2011 - Spain and France - Day 6 : Hot or what ? (209 miles)
We left Carcassonne on time at just after 8:30am, not having had breakfast. The plan was to head east towards Narbonne and then come down the coast. We had consciously avoided the autoroute and used the (lightly trafficked) N113. We arrived at the Mediterranean coast and searched for a café - easier said than done; however we found a little place and I went to the Boulangerie to buy pain au chocolat and croissants.
We had decided not to enter the city of Perpignan and so headed for the small seaside resort of Collioure, south of Perpignan and within just a few miles of the Spanish border. We had a seafood feast which was not exactly cheap; however I did enjoy the oysters !
The day had started with clear skis and so it continued. As we set off again, we noted that the temperature was now up to 28C and a little later was 30C. We filled up with petrol and headed directly for the start of the route towards Tarascon sur Ariège. A few miles prior to the turn off for the Col route, Dave suggested that he and Janet make a direct route to Tarascon as he felt he had had enough. So we separated and agreed to meet in the town in separate hotels but very close by.
My route was up and over the Col de Pailheres and it was quite challenging; why ? Because the road itself was extremely narrow and this, combined with tight, steep uphill hairpins was a little hair-raising, as staying on one’s side of the road was almost impossible. Dave would not have appreciated this Col and, in that respect alone, I was pleased that he had chosen the “GT style” main road which, incidentally, he confirmed as really fabulous!
I arrived in Tarascon sur Ariège at just after 6pm and checked in; only to find that I had already booked for Dave, Janet and I; I would now be liable to pay for both rooms ! Luckily though, the room was easily re-let so all was well. Both my hotel (Le Confort and Dave’s - La Poste) are on the banks of the Ariège river and we each had beers sitting outside. The sun was setting and the temperature was a very pleasant 22C.
We had an evening meal together in a simple river side restaurant and decided that a Pizza was jsut what was required; washed down with cheap but acceptable rosé wine. The plan for tomorrow is to head south on the N20 and into the principality of Andora; then into Spain and the N260 where we shall branch north west and head for France again all, or for the most part, we hope on GT style roads (i.e. not small, tight, twisty roads with multiple hairpins!).
I am writing this on Wednesday morning; the Wi-Fi internet connection at the hotel doesn’t work and so I shall have to wait until this evening when we shall be at Phil and Belinda’s place once again. We are there for 2 nights and I am sure that Dave and Janet will appreciate the comfort and hospitality offered. However, before that, we have approx. 200 miles of riding; I am anxious though, because if the riding is too challenging, we won’t be able to simply “turn round” .....
We had decided not to enter the city of Perpignan and so headed for the small seaside resort of Collioure, south of Perpignan and within just a few miles of the Spanish border. We had a seafood feast which was not exactly cheap; however I did enjoy the oysters !
The day had started with clear skis and so it continued. As we set off again, we noted that the temperature was now up to 28C and a little later was 30C. We filled up with petrol and headed directly for the start of the route towards Tarascon sur Ariège. A few miles prior to the turn off for the Col route, Dave suggested that he and Janet make a direct route to Tarascon as he felt he had had enough. So we separated and agreed to meet in the town in separate hotels but very close by.
My route was up and over the Col de Pailheres and it was quite challenging; why ? Because the road itself was extremely narrow and this, combined with tight, steep uphill hairpins was a little hair-raising, as staying on one’s side of the road was almost impossible. Dave would not have appreciated this Col and, in that respect alone, I was pleased that he had chosen the “GT style” main road which, incidentally, he confirmed as really fabulous!
I arrived in Tarascon sur Ariège at just after 6pm and checked in; only to find that I had already booked for Dave, Janet and I; I would now be liable to pay for both rooms ! Luckily though, the room was easily re-let so all was well. Both my hotel (Le Confort and Dave’s - La Poste) are on the banks of the Ariège river and we each had beers sitting outside. The sun was setting and the temperature was a very pleasant 22C.
We had an evening meal together in a simple river side restaurant and decided that a Pizza was jsut what was required; washed down with cheap but acceptable rosé wine. The plan for tomorrow is to head south on the N20 and into the principality of Andora; then into Spain and the N260 where we shall branch north west and head for France again all, or for the most part, we hope on GT style roads (i.e. not small, tight, twisty roads with multiple hairpins!).
I am writing this on Wednesday morning; the Wi-Fi internet connection at the hotel doesn’t work and so I shall have to wait until this evening when we shall be at Phil and Belinda’s place once again. We are there for 2 nights and I am sure that Dave and Janet will appreciate the comfort and hospitality offered. However, before that, we have approx. 200 miles of riding; I am anxious though, because if the riding is too challenging, we won’t be able to simply “turn round” .....
Monday, September 5, 2011
September 2011 - Spain and France - Day 5 : The GT Twins meet up again (165 miles)
It’s around 7:30am on Tuesday 6th; we’re in Carcassonne and the day started with my meeting up with Dave and Janet (who live north of Bordeaux) at their hotel in Tarbes. The plan was to avoid the motorway and travel on D roads to Carcassonne. All in all we had a really good ride. The weather was kind and we travelled at a brisk but not “fast” pace (David and Kelsey (a couple of an elderly BMW F650 single) would have appreciated it; well at least appreciated it more!)
The route took us through beautiful forest and countryside with, by and large, excellent “GT style” roads. For one reason or another, we all decided to skip lunch which, I found surprising for me, and we continued to Carcassonne , stopping briefly by a huge hole on the rock face where a river rush and through which a small tunnel had been constructed.
We arrived at Carcassonne at around 3:30pm; the Sat Nav guiding us directly to the hotel entrance :-) It was a simple (overpriced) but adequate “tourist” hotel; which was fine as we were immediately handed a map of the area and directions on how to find the mediaeval walled city of Carcassonne. Simply following the tourists was clue enough and, at the entrance to the City were entertainers which was probably a clue to what was inside.
Sure enough, shop after shop selling tourist-tat; bars selling beers at prices to make your head spin. 
Nevertheless, we entered and had a complete tour; including a couple of beers and a sandwich; the price of which was enough to force a hasty retreat from the battlements and walk 2km into the “real” Carcassonne, where we found a proper square with bars and restaurants all around. However, being a Monday - and France has some peculiar customs in this regard - almost everything was fermé ! So, we sat outside in the balmy early evening sunshine and Dave ordered some Tapas (we are near Spain after all!) and some rosé wine. This went down a treat and discussed how disappointed we were in Carcassonne as a whole.
We had planned to spend tomorrow morning (Tuesday 6th) “chilling” in Carcassonne; but the plans were quickly revised and we decided to leave and head for the sea - the beautiful Mediterranean around Perpignan. The weather forecast was still looking good so sun, sea and shell fish sounded pretty good to us all.
So, we agreed to be ready at our m’cycles, at 8:30am. We have agreed that Dave needed his ablutions before setting out so Jane bought fruit juice and biscuits to help him on his way the next morning :-) !!
It’s now 7:50am so I shall upload this to the “blog” but the pictures will have to wait until tonight where we shall again be in the SE Pyrenees.
The route took us through beautiful forest and countryside with, by and large, excellent “GT style” roads. For one reason or another, we all decided to skip lunch which, I found surprising for me, and we continued to Carcassonne , stopping briefly by a huge hole on the rock face where a river rush and through which a small tunnel had been constructed.
We arrived at Carcassonne at around 3:30pm; the Sat Nav guiding us directly to the hotel entrance :-) It was a simple (overpriced) but adequate “tourist” hotel; which was fine as we were immediately handed a map of the area and directions on how to find the mediaeval walled city of Carcassonne. Simply following the tourists was clue enough and, at the entrance to the City were entertainers which was probably a clue to what was inside.
Sure enough, shop after shop selling tourist-tat; bars selling beers at prices to make your head spin. 
Nevertheless, we entered and had a complete tour; including a couple of beers and a sandwich; the price of which was enough to force a hasty retreat from the battlements and walk 2km into the “real” Carcassonne, where we found a proper square with bars and restaurants all around. However, being a Monday - and France has some peculiar customs in this regard - almost everything was fermé ! So, we sat outside in the balmy early evening sunshine and Dave ordered some Tapas (we are near Spain after all!) and some rosé wine. This went down a treat and discussed how disappointed we were in Carcassonne as a whole.
We had planned to spend tomorrow morning (Tuesday 6th) “chilling” in Carcassonne; but the plans were quickly revised and we decided to leave and head for the sea - the beautiful Mediterranean around Perpignan. The weather forecast was still looking good so sun, sea and shell fish sounded pretty good to us all.
So, we agreed to be ready at our m’cycles, at 8:30am. We have agreed that Dave needed his ablutions before setting out so Jane bought fruit juice and biscuits to help him on his way the next morning :-) !!
It’s now 7:50am so I shall upload this to the “blog” but the pictures will have to wait until tonight where we shall again be in the SE Pyrenees.
Sunday, September 4, 2011
September 2011 - Spain and France - Day 4 : Such roads Do Exist !! (199 miles)
Yesterday’s entry ended with “Our enthusiasm for this ride will depend greatly upon the weather forecast....”. Not only was the forecast rubbish but the early morning was misty, damp and had rain in the air.
The group was reduced to myself, Phil and his son, Ed; the others deciding to do their own thing. So, at 9:40 we set off; Phil leading and Ed at the rear. The plan was to run down into Spain and join some of the very best biking roads - ever! The mist started to clear and the sun started to shine. We crossed over the Col d’Aspin where we stopped for a few minutes admiring the stamina of the elderly men who had just cycled to the top. We then joined the D929, passing through Arreau and heading for the tunnel which leads to Spain.
The photo is us waiting for the green light which allows us to ride through the 3km tunnel.
On the other side we entered the region of Aragon and the start of what can only be described as an astounding road. It is wide; great surface and has multiple bends; the traffic is extremely light and it was almost a question of how quickly do you wish to go ? Police of other enforcement was non existent; except that we did come across a police “check point” where we were simply waved through.
The GT and her rider were experiencing a new level of motorcycling enjoyment and I had clearly selected Sport mode to ensure that the bike was optimally set up for the task. At around 11:50, we stopped for a breather and a drink before setting off again. The plan now was to continue to Ainsa where we would turn onto the N260.
Once more, our motorcycling senses were taken to new levels as the combination of scenery, road surface, camber and bends allowed full enjoyments at whatever velocity suits your style and ability.
We stopped for fuel a few miles from the French border and had a tasty dish of eggs, bacon, Corizo sausages and chips !! However the best part was that the Misano MotoGP was on live and we were able to watch a fabulous race.
The return to Phil’s place was via the D934 then turn off onto the excellent D35 heading towards Lourdes. We arrived back at 16:45 having had a thoroughly exhilarating day. My GT really earned some browny points today; she averaged 53 mpg despite being run in 2nd - 4th gears for long periods. The Michelin PR3s behaved well with the amount of lean angle clearly visible!
The group was reduced to myself, Phil and his son, Ed; the others deciding to do their own thing. So, at 9:40 we set off; Phil leading and Ed at the rear. The plan was to run down into Spain and join some of the very best biking roads - ever! The mist started to clear and the sun started to shine. We crossed over the Col d’Aspin where we stopped for a few minutes admiring the stamina of the elderly men who had just cycled to the top. We then joined the D929, passing through Arreau and heading for the tunnel which leads to Spain.
The photo is us waiting for the green light which allows us to ride through the 3km tunnel.
On the other side we entered the region of Aragon and the start of what can only be described as an astounding road. It is wide; great surface and has multiple bends; the traffic is extremely light and it was almost a question of how quickly do you wish to go ? Police of other enforcement was non existent; except that we did come across a police “check point” where we were simply waved through.
The GT and her rider were experiencing a new level of motorcycling enjoyment and I had clearly selected Sport mode to ensure that the bike was optimally set up for the task. At around 11:50, we stopped for a breather and a drink before setting off again. The plan now was to continue to Ainsa where we would turn onto the N260.
Once more, our motorcycling senses were taken to new levels as the combination of scenery, road surface, camber and bends allowed full enjoyments at whatever velocity suits your style and ability.
We stopped for fuel a few miles from the French border and had a tasty dish of eggs, bacon, Corizo sausages and chips !! However the best part was that the Misano MotoGP was on live and we were able to watch a fabulous race.
The return to Phil’s place was via the D934 then turn off onto the excellent D35 heading towards Lourdes. We arrived back at 16:45 having had a thoroughly exhilarating day. My GT really earned some browny points today; she averaged 53 mpg despite being run in 2nd - 4th gears for long periods. The Michelin PR3s behaved well with the amount of lean angle clearly visible!
Saturday, September 3, 2011
September 2011 - Spain and France - Day 3 : Local Exploration (142 miles)
Today, there was no official or planned tour so each of the couples (+ me) did their own thing. Phil had proposed a route that took in the waterfalls because, having just had such heavy rain throughout the night, he suggested it might be worth a look.
The route was to head south through Baneres de Bigorre over the Col du Tourmalet and then to Cauterets and the Pont d’Espagne. The weather forecast was pretty dire and the darkening clouds as I prepared to set off, did not dispell any doubts in that direction.
I had obviously set up my route in the sat nav and so could concentrate on the journey; and what a journey it was. Great shafts of sunshine were breaking through the clouds and reflected off the surrounding hills and mountains ahead; it was very spectacular. The roads were, in the main, excellent and I was soon climbing upwards towards the Col du Tormalet, passing dozens of cyclists en route. About half way up, I passed through some mist and i was concerned that perhaps this would persist as I gained altitude.
I was soon greeted by clear skies and I entered the resort town of la Mongie; it was dreadful in all respects with gaudy colours, brash signs and tourist shops everywhere; yuk! At the top of the Col (2115m), the views were spectacular and I took the photo below.
I descended the Col but was ever conscious of the cattle and sheep that use the road also; leaving behind choice samples seemingly purposely on the (hairpin) bends themselves. Caution and safely had to come first. But that was fine as this wasn’t a race and I gently made my way down to continue the route through beautiful gorges on my way to Cauterets.
I did see a few waterfalls and very mice they were too but, as I approached the panoramic viewing area of Pont d’Espagne, the mist was again evident so I decided to turn around and head back towards Lourdes. I was in two minds whether or not to visit the famous Grotto or the other pilgrimage sites. I parked up opposite the local market and had lunch in a local bistro; all for under €10 and very tasty and, upon remounting the GT, decided that I would head north east and explore some of the other roads in the area.
As for the weather, it remained dry the whole time so that was a blessing. I returned to Phil and Bellinda’s place at around 3:45pm having down 142 miles; just as the previous day coincidentally.
The meal in the evening had eight us us around the table thoroughly enjoying the delicious food and each swapping tales of the day’s exploits. Tomorrow could be interesting; a potentially longer ride that takes us into Spain, crossing over to another valley (road) to the east and then back up into France again.
Our enthusiasm for this ride will depend greatly upon the weather forecast....
The route was to head south through Baneres de Bigorre over the Col du Tourmalet and then to Cauterets and the Pont d’Espagne. The weather forecast was pretty dire and the darkening clouds as I prepared to set off, did not dispell any doubts in that direction.
I had obviously set up my route in the sat nav and so could concentrate on the journey; and what a journey it was. Great shafts of sunshine were breaking through the clouds and reflected off the surrounding hills and mountains ahead; it was very spectacular. The roads were, in the main, excellent and I was soon climbing upwards towards the Col du Tormalet, passing dozens of cyclists en route. About half way up, I passed through some mist and i was concerned that perhaps this would persist as I gained altitude.
I was soon greeted by clear skies and I entered the resort town of la Mongie; it was dreadful in all respects with gaudy colours, brash signs and tourist shops everywhere; yuk! At the top of the Col (2115m), the views were spectacular and I took the photo below.
I descended the Col but was ever conscious of the cattle and sheep that use the road also; leaving behind choice samples seemingly purposely on the (hairpin) bends themselves. Caution and safely had to come first. But that was fine as this wasn’t a race and I gently made my way down to continue the route through beautiful gorges on my way to Cauterets.
I did see a few waterfalls and very mice they were too but, as I approached the panoramic viewing area of Pont d’Espagne, the mist was again evident so I decided to turn around and head back towards Lourdes. I was in two minds whether or not to visit the famous Grotto or the other pilgrimage sites. I parked up opposite the local market and had lunch in a local bistro; all for under €10 and very tasty and, upon remounting the GT, decided that I would head north east and explore some of the other roads in the area.
As for the weather, it remained dry the whole time so that was a blessing. I returned to Phil and Bellinda’s place at around 3:45pm having down 142 miles; just as the previous day coincidentally.
The meal in the evening had eight us us around the table thoroughly enjoying the delicious food and each swapping tales of the day’s exploits. Tomorrow could be interesting; a potentially longer ride that takes us into Spain, crossing over to another valley (road) to the east and then back up into France again.
Our enthusiasm for this ride will depend greatly upon the weather forecast....
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